Sitting at the top of an old ski jump, we looked out at the pine forest. One of my two companions marvelled “the shades of green seem endless.”
The memory comes to me as if she were whispering it in my ear, almost a decade later, whilst I sit on the terrace of a Kayan longhouse, in the heart of the Bornean Rainforest.
The huge man -my host- sits on a bench opposite me, leaning on one hand. Long haired and tattooed, his stomach balloons out in front of him. His round face is covered in a wispy beard and he has a squint in one, bloodshot eye. The strong smell of alcohol, tobacco and his heavy breathing precede him. Evidently, the 11 bottles of Chap Apek shared with him and his friends the previous night are a usual occurrence.
I begin to wonder whether I overpaid for my stay, but then the beauty of the place begins to sink in. Ornate patterns on plywood run the length of the entire building -black and white- above the doors into each family’s quarters. Brightly coloured plastic carpeting is found everywhere, from the terraces to the kitchens. Each family decorates their own entrance with Chandeliers of plastic origami and hornbill motifs. Little of the workmanship is professional, the materials are cheap, but the wooden building in its entirety is welcoming, pretty and heartfelt.
I try to soak up the comfort of the place. Out of the corner of my eye, from the other end of the magnificent building, a Kayan aunty hobbles into view. She has an ikat wrapped smartly around her waist and her shining, strong, jet black hair is in a tight bun. This bald writer will have some of what she puts in her hair, thank you. The light from a pungent conical Kayan cigarette illuminates wind beaten features. She is a fine-looking woman, elegant, dignified, and as she comes into the light I notice her tattoos. Each arm, from the elbow down to the nails, is black, with only her palms a striking white.
The practise of these ethnic peoples is to use tattoos as protective charms or to symbolize milestones in one’s life. Their tribal home and the one that I have just described is the longhouse. A stilted building that constitutes a small village. It can be up to 200 metres long with a shared terrace on one side and apartments on the other. They are mysterious and magical communities, just like the forests that surround them.
At first, I was afraid of hiking in the rainforest on my own, constant over-the-shoulder glances and anxiety at the different animal sounds. But after a few laboured and lonely attempts the therapeutic and peaceful effects of the greenery made themselves known to me. Weird plants that look like they’ve been sculpted by aliens. The buttress roots of trees like the huge sinewy arms of some god, and the endless canopy of green all around.
It is little known that the chances of having an aggressive encounter with an animal in the Bornean rainforest are non-existent. They are more likely to run away from us than towards us. In fact, it would have been nice to see more animals in Borneo, their scarcity is partially explained by the fact that our species is the meanest bully in the yard.
At a bus stop near the Niah National Park in Sarawak there is a food court. At the back of the food court, just before the entrance to the toilets, are a number of cages. They range in size from your bed side table to an airplane toilet. In them a variety of snakes, turtles and lizards can be found. The animals barely move, there is little light and not even a leaf to mimic their natural surroundings. They are an altogether sorry sight. Regardless of this, giggling tourists saunter past to relieve themselves without a care in the world. Many take selfies with these morbid celebrities. The manner we adopt at funerals or death beds seems more appropriate.
I begin to ask myself if we have a duty as the more powerful species to protect these animals? This duty is much akin to the duty we have to children. The innocence of these creatures is childlike, and their wordless grace astounding.
The beauty, diversity and the sense of adventure that I found in Sarawakian Borneo is one of the highlights of my life and came at a time when I needed it most. In a way, the rainforests remind of the humble forests of pine and birch back home, and, the seemingly endless shades of green.
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